There are few situations more frustrating than when your car wants to start but refuses to. It leaves you feeling helpless, especially if you’re not a car expert. While most people don’t carry around a full set of mechanic’s tools, as a car expert with over 50 years of experience as an ASE and General Motors Master Technician, I understand the urge to have a quick fix ready for those unexpected moments. I usually keep a multi-tool, jump starter, jumper cables, a safety hammer, and a small tool kit in my own vehicles just in case.
However, before you panic, don’t assume you’re completely stuck. There are several simple tricks you can try when your car wants to start but won’t, and the best part is, none of them require any tools at all. These tips are organized by the symptoms your car is exhibiting, and trying them costs you nothing. While they might not solve the underlying issue permanently, one of these tricks could be just enough to get your engine running so you can drive to your nearest mechanic for a proper repair. Below, you’ll find straightforward advice from seasoned technicians that can help you get back on the road when your car refuses to cooperate and won’t start.
You might also be interested in learning how to jump start an electric car.
Decoding “Car Won’t Start”: Common Culprits
“Why won’t my car start?” It’s a question I’ve encountered countless times. The truth is, the reasons can range from a minor issue like a cheap fuse to a major problem such as a costly engine failure.
Top Reasons Why Your Car Refuses to Start:
- Dead Battery or Battery Issues: This includes a completely dead battery, corroded or dirty battery terminals, or any component draining the battery’s charge.
- Starter Motor Problems: A failing starter motor can prevent the engine from turning over.
- Electrical System or Wiring Issues: Problems within the car’s electrical system or damaged wiring harnesses can disrupt the starting process.
- Fuel, Ignition, or Air Intake System Problems: Issues in these systems can prevent the engine from receiving the necessary fuel, spark, or air to start.
- Engine Mechanical Failures: In severe cases, internal engine damage can prevent the car from starting.
These issues often arise due to the age of parts, inadequate preventative maintenance, extreme temperatures or weather conditions, and various other contributing factors.
Step-by-Step Troubleshooting for a Car That Wants to Start But Won’t
Symptom 1: Clicking Sound When Trying to Start
If you hear a distinct clicking sound when you turn the key, but the car still won’t start, the problem often lies within the battery or starter system. This could be due to a weak battery, corroded battery terminals, a worn-out starter motor, or a stuck starter solenoid. While jump-starting your car might be the ultimate solution, there are a few no-tool tricks to attempt first.
Trick 1: Cycling the Key
If your car’s lights and accessories turn on, indicating some power, but it still won’t start, try the key cycling trick. First, turn on the dome light and observe its brightness as you attempt to start the engine. If the dome light dims significantly or goes out completely, it’s a strong indicator of a very weak or almost dead battery. To potentially warm up the battery, terminals, and starter, try cycling the key.
The method is simple: repeatedly turn the key to the start position (or push the “Start” button) about 10 times in quick succession. After cycling the key, stop and wait for about five minutes. Then, try to start the engine normally. If the dome light remained bright during your initial start attempts, this trick is less likely to work, and you should move on to the next troubleshooting step if your car still won’t start.
Trick 2: Tapping on the Battery Terminals
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When you’re stranded without tools, cleaning corroded battery terminals isn’t an option. However, you can try to improve the electrical contact by slightly moving or jarring the terminals. Using the heel of your shoe, gently smack each battery terminal. The goal is to rotate it slightly around the battery post to create a better connection. Be careful not to hit too forcefully, as you could damage the battery post or crack the battery case.
After tapping the terminals, try starting the engine again. This might be enough to establish a better connection and get your car to start.
Trick 3: Tugging on the Battery Cables
A loose positive (+) battery cable connection at the starter or a loose or corroded negative (-) cable where it connects to the engine block can prevent your car from starting. Visually inspect the negative (-) battery cable connection where it attaches to the engine. Ensure it’s making a solid, clean connection. Sometimes, simply wiggling or tugging gently on the battery cables can help re-establish a connection if it’s slightly loose or corroded.
Trick 4: Tapping the Starter Motor
If you can locate and access the starter motor, try gently tapping it. Using the tire iron from your car jack kit (or another similar blunt object if available), lightly tap the starter motor. Sometimes, the internal electrical contacts within the starter can become stuck. Tapping on the starter housing can sometimes dislodge these contacts and allow them to function correctly again.
Trick 5: “Popping” the Clutch (Manual Transmission Cars Only)
For vehicles with a manual transmission (standard transmission), there’s a technique called “popping the clutch” that can be effective. Bill Kirkpatrick, an ASE and Volkswagen Master Technician, recommends this as a useful method to start a car with a dead battery or a malfunctioning starter – but only attempt this if you have someone who can safely push your vehicle.
Here’s how to pop the clutch:
- Engage the parking brake and turn on your hazard lights.
- Ensure the road ahead is clear of obstacles and traffic.
- Press and hold down the brake pedal and fully depress the clutch.
- Turn the ignition key to the “run” position (do not attempt to start). Shift the gear lever into second gear.
- Release the parking brake.
- Have your helper push the car from behind. Instruct them to push on solid parts of the car’s frame, not on glass, taillights, or trim.
- Once the car reaches a speed of approximately 5 miles per hour, quickly release your foot from the clutch pedal.
- The car will likely “jerk” as the engine engages with the transmission. This transfer of power (torque) should be enough to turn the engine over and hopefully start it.
- Once the engine starts, immediately push the clutch pedal back in, shift to neutral, and apply the brakes. Allow the engine to run for 10 to 15 minutes to help recharge the battery.
Symptom 2: No Clicking Sound When You Turn the Key
If you turn the key and there’s complete silence – no clicking, no cranking – the issue might be related to the electrical circuit that engages the starter.
Trick 6: Shifting the Shifter
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With your foot firmly on the brake pedal, move the gear shift lever through its range. Shift it all the way down to the lowest gear position and then back up to “Park” several times. After doing this, try starting the engine in “Park.” If it still doesn’t start, repeat the process and try starting the engine in “Neutral.”
Sometimes, moving the shifter can re-establish electrical contact within the transmission range selector, also known as the neutral safety switch. This switch is designed to only allow the car to start in “Park” or “Neutral,” and sometimes it can become misaligned or have poor contact.
Symptom 3: Engine Cranks But Won’t Fire Up
If you hear the engine turning over (cranking) but it just won’t start and run, the problem is likely related to fuel delivery, ignition, or air intake.
Trick 7: Swapping Relays
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Before attempting this trick, turn off the radio and any accessories. When you turn the ignition key to the “run” position (just before “start”), listen carefully for a faint, two-second buzzing sound. This sound indicates the fuel pump is priming the fuel injection system. If you don’t hear this buzzing, the fuel pump relay might be faulty, or the fuel pump itself could be failing.
Locate the fuel pump relay. Refer to your owner’s manual or the fuse box cover legend (usually located under the hood) to find its exact location. Once found, carefully pull the fuel pump relay straight up to remove it. Next, identify another relay in the fuse box that has the same part number and specifications. Swap this known good relay with the fuel pump relay socket. Push it firmly into place. Now, turn the key to the “run” position again and listen for the two-second buzzing sound. If you hear it this time, try starting the engine.
Trick 8: Smacking the Fuel Tank
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If your car still won’t start, try this somewhat unconventional method: firmly hit the bottom of the fuel tank several times with your shoe or a similar object. The purpose is to jar the fuel pump motor. Sometimes, a fuel pump motor can become temporarily stuck or have a dead spot. Smacking the fuel tank can sometimes dislodge it and allow it to start working again. After hitting the tank a few times, try starting the vehicle.
Trick 9: Un-flooding a Flooded Engine
If you smell a strong odor of gasoline, it’s possible your engine is flooded with too much fuel. To clear a flooded engine, engage the “clear-flood” mode. While the gear selector is in “Park” or “Neutral”, fully depress the accelerator pedal and hold it to the floor. Keep the accelerator pedal held down while you crank the engine. This action tells the engine control unit to reduce fuel delivery, allowing excess fuel to clear out.
Trick 10: Tricking the Computer (Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment)
A vacuum leak or a malfunctioning temperature sensor can sometimes cause an air/fuel mixture that is too lean (not enough fuel) to start a cold engine, particularly in colder weather. If you’ve tried the other tricks and your car still won’t start, try slightly pressing the accelerator pedal – about halfway down – while you attempt to start the engine. This action signals the car’s computer to add more fuel to the mixture, which might be enough to get it started if the mixture was too lean.
Trick 11: Checking Wire Harnesses
Loose or corroded wire harness connectors under the hood can cause a multitude of electrical problems, including no-start conditions. Visually inspect the wire harnesses and connectors in the engine compartment for any signs of dirt, corrosion, or damage. According to Kirkpatrick, simply disconnecting and reconnecting a suspect connector can sometimes scrape away enough corrosion or oxidation buildup on the wire terminals to restore a good electrical connection and get your car running again.
When It’s Time to Call a Professional
If you’ve tried these no-tool tricks and your car still refuses to start, it’s time to call for professional help. Contact a towing service to take your vehicle to a qualified mechanic for diagnosis and repair.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Why won’t my car start when I have power?
A: If your car has power (lights, accessories work) but makes no sound when starting, the most likely culprits are a faulty starter motor, a bad starter relay or solenoid, or another electrical issue preventing power from reaching the starter. However, the battery itself is still often the primary suspect.
A fully charged battery should read around 12.6 volts when the engine is off and approximately 14.6 volts when the engine is running. If the battery voltage drops below nine volts when you attempt to start the engine – due to a weak battery, a defective starter drawing excessive current, or high resistance in battery connections – there might not be enough electrical current to fully engage the starter circuit. This can result in enough power to turn on lights but not enough to crank the engine.
Q: Why won’t my car start when it’s cold?
A: Cold weather can exacerbate existing car starting problems. The main reasons a car might not start in cold conditions are:
- Dead or Weak Battery: Cold temperatures reduce battery capacity.
- Thick Motor Oil: Cold oil becomes viscous, making the engine harder to turn over.
- Frozen Fuel System: In extreme cold, moisture in the fuel lines can freeze and block fuel flow.
- Defective Engine Sensors: Some sensors can be more prone to failure in cold.
- Starter Motor Issues: Cold can worsen starter motor problems.
Q: Why won’t my car start after getting gas?
A: While less common, a car that won’t start after refueling can be due to several issues. In addition to the general problems listed earlier, specific fuel-related issues can arise: A malfunctioning evaporative emission control system (EVAP) valve could cause the engine to flood with fuel. If your fuel tank was very low, the sudden influx of cold gasoline onto a warm or hot fuel pump could cause the pump to fail due to thermal shock, or it could dislodge sediment in the tank, leading to a clogged fuel filter.
Q: Why won’t my car start with a new battery?
A: It’s certainly frustrating when a new battery doesn’t solve a no-start problem. If your car still won’t start after replacing the battery, check these points before assuming the new battery is also faulty:
- Verify Battery Charge: Ensure the new battery is fully charged. Even new batteries can sometimes be low on charge.
- Confirm Gear Selector Position: Make sure the gear selector is fully in “Park” (or “Neutral” for some vehicles).
- Check Battery Cable Connections: Double-check that the battery cables are securely and correctly connected to the battery terminals: positive (+) cable to the positive (+) post and negative (-) cable to the negative (-) post.
- Inspect Negative Cable Ground: Thoroughly inspect the negative (-) battery cable where it attaches to the engine block or chassis. Ensure it’s clean, tight, and making a solid ground connection.
- Consider Starter or Other Electrical Problems: If all the above checks out, the issue is likely a bad starter motor or another electrical system problem beyond the battery.
About the Experts
- Bill Kirkpatrick has dedicated over 50 years to the automotive repair industry and vocational education. He is an ASE and Volkswagen Master Technician, and has experience as a shop owner and dealership service manager. Bill retired as a Pennsylvania Department of Education (PDE) certified automotive technology and small engine instructor and holds PA certifications as an emissions and safety inspection instructor and inspector.
Sources
(While specific sources weren’t explicitly listed in the original article, the expertise of the author and quoted expert, combined with the reputable nature of the publication, serve as implicit sources.)
